Cleaning and Maintaining Art Pottery

Whenever I inspect a piece of pottery, I check for chips, hairline cracks, as well as the condition of the glaze. In addition to the visual inspection for chips and cracks, I feel the pot with my fingers. I move my finger over the rim, around the base and feel the interior. Often times you can feel chips and cracks that are not readily visible.

The best light for spotting hairline cracks is very strong light such as sunlight. Recently, I bought a Weller Tutone vase (strong red and green color). I found no problems until I looked on the inside of the vase. I spotted a tiny pin sized area where the clay showed through. I then felt the area with my fingers and discovered a hairline.

Another method for finding hairlines is to "ring" the vase. I find this method has limited use as many pieces of pottery do not have a "ring." Roseville Pottery seems to have the best "ring."

I have bought a number of pots that looked awful, dirty, with rust colored crazing and mineral deposits, etc. When I get one of these gems home, the first thing I do is to wash it with 409 Cleaner using a sponge and bottle brush for the interior of most vases. I find that 409 Cleaner removes most of the accumulated dirt and grime with gentle scrubbing. Use only on matt glazed pottery with hard clay, such as Van Briggle, Weller, Rookwood, TECO, etc.

On matte glazes there are often silver marks and other dark pencil like marks. I can remove most of those using the 409 Cleaner and a 3M pad, gently rubbing the area (you can damage the glaze if you apply too much pressure).

For stubborn stains (the rust colored crazing stains) I use 40% peroxide solution that I buy at a beauty supply. After rinsing the dirt from the pot with hot water, I fill the interior with peroxide or if it is a small vase or bowl I will immerse it entirely in peroxide. It can take a week or two for the peroxide to work its magic. If I have a larger piece that needs peroxide on the exterior, I fill a plastic wash tub a couple of inches high with peroxide and lay the vase or jardinière on its side and rotate it about once a week until the stains disappear. You need to take great care using peroxide to avoid contact with your skin and clothing. I always use rubber gloves and wear old clothing.

For the mineral deposits, I use the 3M pad with 409 Cleaner after the cleaning with peroxide, rubbing the area where the deposits are until the deposits improve to an acceptable level.

After using 409 or peroxide, soak the piece in clear water or better yet distilled water for as long as you as the piece was exposed to the cleaner. This will remove residue that may affect the piece over time.

Many of the pots I have bought come with specks of paint on them. I use acetone (nail polish remover will work) to remove the paint (be sure the pot has no repairs before using this method, as most repairs will be damaged or destroyed by acetone).

I have used these techniques on production pieces from Roseville, Weller, Fulper, Rookwood, Van Briggle, McCoy, Zanesville  and  Red Wing pottery with good results.

All of the above suggestions must be used with care. I would suggest trying them first with a pot of little value. Also, never use these techniques for hand painted pottery, bisque type pottery, pottery like Grueby or any pottery made with soft clay or soft glazes or if the pot has any repairs.

I have seen Oxi Clean suggested for cleaning pottery. I used Oxi Clean on a Rookwood Matt glaze vase. The good news was that it did clean the bowl. The bad news is that it cleaned off some of the glaze in the process. I would not recommend using Oxi Clean for cleaning pottery.

When displaying your pottery, do so in an area that has an even temperature away from direct sunlight. Other than that, an occasional dusting is about all it takes to maintain your collection.

- Charlie Wollitz